It's time to visit another couple of Chef G's happy haunts. Then he will discuss his favorite herb...
An early onslaught of "Dog Days" in the south suburbs of Chicago--temps in the high 90's, humidity the same...here are two good local excursions to help beat the heat and treat the palate to authentic cuisines--in this case, Japan & Italy.
Don't let G-in Sushi & Grill's storefront look turn you off...in fact, that is part of the character and charm of the place. You could be in New York, L.A., or some other big city, at one of their well-regarded sushi joints, but you aren't--this time you are in south suburban Chicago (Tinley Park, to be precise) at the busy intersection of Harlem Avenue & 183rd Street.
G-in has the look and feel of an urban eatery, down to the tablet paper menu and pencil you are given to check off your order choices. Fear not, they also give you a large laminated menu which explains the offerings (good for those with mild "sushiphobia"). Also there are ample "non-raw" choices, so everyone should find something to fit their tastes and comfort levels.
My selections this visit:
Vegetable Tempura Appetizer (6 different vegetables, fried in a delicate tempura batter)
Ginger Salad
Spicy Ebi Maki (shrimp & spicy mayo sauce roll)
Holy Roll (spicy salmon, lobster & masago--smelt roe on top)
Iced Unsweetened Green Tea
Green Tea Mochi (green tea ice cream enrobed in a sticky rice paste "skin", see below)
Green Tea Mochi
The tempura was just right--light, crisp. I got broccoli, mushroom, onion, sweet potato, green pepper and squash. What took it to the next level was the sauce. The typical tempura sauce adds little flavor and does not enhance the vegetables...in fact, it actually makes the batter less crispy! But the tempura sauce at G-in was more flavorful and subtly sweet--a tasty companion to the vegetables.
The salad was what you'd expect--iceberg lettuce in a cool, ginger dressing. It was cool, crunchy and gingery--just what I wanted.
Both of the rolls I got were fresh, flavorful and served at the perfect temperature. The only thing that puzzled me a bit was the wasabi paste. It had all the flavor, but not the heat I've come to expect. I tend to overdo it with wasabi--I enjoy that first ear-popping "blast" to the sinuses...but not this time. Still, both rolls were excellent.
A big green tea fan, I enjoyed the fresh, iced green tea--think I had 3 glasses! Decades ago, I was introduced to green tea ice cream at a sushi joint in NYC, and have looked for it ever since. When I asked if they had it, they said they served it as mochi--little orbs of ice cream covered with a thin "skin" of sticky rice paste. Not my first choice for this dessert, but very tasty and nicely presented (with whipped cream and chocolate sauce garnishing the plate).
All in all, G-in provides a high quality, authentic Japanese dining experience at low to medium prices. Chef G will return to G-in! By the way, in case you are wondering, Chef G & G-in are not affiliated!
A classic Italian love story: Frankie's Ristorante of Tinley Park
9501 West 171st Street Tinley Park, IL just one block east of LaGrange |
Having grown up eating the best Italian food ever in my Mother's kitchen, I have always been leery of any Italian eatery--especially those that charge big bucks for what I consider the all-time perfect comfort food. As I get older and wiser (sheesh!), I have become more open-minded and will admit that some Italian restaurants get it right, whether pricey or good & cheap! Frankie's is one of those places. I have been there twice, both times in the company of good friends, one of whom is also Italian, so our opinion counts double! Ha, ha!
Frankie's is that high end Italian place where you take a serious date or go knowing that the more "limited" menu means everything will be prepared to perfection. Also, they often add a special touch/twist to a dish which makes it a memorable, signature offering.
So that I don't go on and on and on, I won't talk about everything we ate--instead I'll focus just on my selections and offer this advice--read the menu carefully, listen carefully to the server as he explains the specials del giorno, and ask questions! I asked my fair share and our server was happy to go into detail, and repeat, as needed.
For antipasti, I ordered Ciambotta (which I happily shared with the table). The menu describes this generous dish as Frankie’s Special Grilled sausage, roasted sweet peppers and vesuvio potatoes served in a white wine garlic sauce. Sure, how can you lose with sausage, peppers and potatoes? But it also came with thinly-sliced mushrooms, and that sauce! Wow. There was definitely more to it than white wine and garlic. I had to sop up every drop with the crusty Italian bread they served.
Next came the zuppa del giorno, a smooth puree of leeks, potatoes and smoked bacon. It was creamy, fragrant and the flavors of all the ingredients were present in perfect harmony.
I puzzled over three different secondo piatto, before settling on a fourth! My selection was Pork Valdostana--a pork chop pounded thin (until it almost completely covered a 14" dinner plate--see the picture if you don't believe me) covered with thin slices of mozzarella and prosciutto, coated in seasoned bread crumbs and sauteed...served with a simple salad of greens, tomatoes and parmigiano, with a drizzle of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Drooling yet? Just look at this:
This excellent entree typifies all the best aspects of Italian cucina...the perfect marriage of a few, top quality ingredients, prepared proprio cosi--just so, presented simply and allowing time to enjoy the food, enhanced by equal measures of mirth and conversation. Such a pleasant, leisurely meal, like those I recall having on my visit to Rome a few years back--where a quick bite meant only spending 2 hours.
For most, Frankie's is not an every day dining experience--it is medium to high priced--but worth every penny spent on un'occasione speciale! If, by any chance, Frankie's is an every day pleasure for you, call me and bring me as your guest!
As was the case with my companions, I was full to capacity and envisioned leftovers for lunch and dinner the next day!
On the "good & cheap" end of the Italian dining spectrum, nothing will ever top Strolli's of South Philly...Sadly, Strolli's no longer exists due to (among other things) the passing of their matriarch and patriarch, Carmela and John. While it won't give you the satisfaction of a meal, follow this link to get at least a taste of why Strolli's was one of the best Italian restaurants anywhere, outside of Italy:
http://articles.philly.com/1994-08-09/news/25841365_1_kitchen-restaurant-inexpensive-price
The food there was inseparable from those who lovingly prepared and served it--which is why it is fitting to learn about the restaurant through the cook's obituary. A family of four could easily eat their fill of several exquisite homemade offerings for $20, including tax & tip. Most/many menu items were in the $1 - $5 range. I remember a review of Strolli's several years back where the critic talked with John and marveled at the insanely low prices for a mountain of food. John's disarming rejoinder was simply, "Carmela, she likes to cook!"
Had enough? Hold on, don't quit on me yet. It's time for me to present my tribute to my favorite herb:
If you recall from my post of June 23, 2011 (What's on Your front porch?), the herb I can't get enough of is basil...no, make that
BASIL
A Bit over the top you say? Well, I say, no way! I have three pots on my front porch (the Poppa pot, the Momma pot & the Baby pot) and they are proof that the more space you give a plant, the more it will thrive.
My source was a $4 pot of basil from Trader Joe's that had to have at least 15 viable individual plants. I divided them between the three available pots and treated them with the same TLC (soil, sun, water and encouragement)--and the resulting plants are thriving, but the leaf size and fullness are greater as the pot size increases. The leaf in the picture is actually typical of the Poppa pot.
My salads (whether a Caprese, a multi-ingredient antipasto, or simple greens and veggies) all enjoy an abundance of basil. I really savor homemade pesto and will have a small jar ready to serve at a moment's notice, and a much large jar of fresh basil, ground with extra virgin olive oil and a little sea salt, ready to join the other ingredients as needed for this rich, fragrant, green topping for pasta and other entrees. As an appetizer, I like basil "cigars"--large basil leaves (see above picture), rolled around a mixture of cooked, crumbled Italian fennel sausage and grated provolone, baked just long enough for the cheese/meat mixture to melt together.
Unlike zucchini, which comes in such quantity that it challenges any cook's ability to use every last one, I will run out of basil long before I run out of things to do with it. I have become quite proficient at pinching it back and getting the most from each plant. Should it become necessary, I use my Mother's method of freezing it:
Wash and dry well, laying each leaf in a single layer on wax paper or parchment, on a cookie sheet. Place in the freezer for about 1 hour, then quickly transfer frozen leaves to a plastic bag (squeeze out all the air) or other airtight container, and place back in the freezer. Dip into this stash as needed...Truly the next best thing to fresh and really adds flavor and fragrance to soups, etc.
I could go on, but I bet right about now you are hungry, so andare a mangiare, i miei amici!
Till the next time,
Chef G
PS--If you enjoy this, please spread the word to others of like mind! Grazie!
